Verbier is Switzerlands number one resort with great skiing and boarding. The terrain is fantastic, the views superb and the snow reliable. Unfortunately the Verbier is popular and the queues reflect this. Good for all abilities but experts will love the off-piste that is straight out of a magazine. Too good to be true? Well, Verbier is expensive and snobby to the extreme. There are ways to cut costs (a nice youth hostel in the valley if you can stand the commute) if you want but expect to pay through the nose for pretty much everything! Plenty of places to eat and drink if you have the money.
Due to the fact that Verbier is a very popular resort and only 1hr 45min from Geneva and with a glacier you are always going to find that there are times when it is busy. The only answer I have is to make sure that you are at the lift station early and you should be fine. Verbier is clearly different from the rest of the 4 Valleys and yes, the lift system is pretty awful when you go down towards Thyon; too much time traversing and not enough skiing time. Hopefully the lifts will improve over time.
The run down to Verbier from Ruinette is bad: it does funnel and can get scary for those not used to it. I take the lift if I am coming down; no point in doing the path. The other way down to avoid this area is to bear right and ski off to Carreforre and then ski down the golf course (le rouge) and catch a bus (free) there.
Savoleyres is fabulous. Unsung and actually more scenic than the main mountain. It offers great off-piste through the trees and the longest run in the resort down to La Tsoumaz. It's north facing and can get icy but is good for all skiers.
If you are of a good standard the off-piste is some of the best in Europe. Having skied there for 9 years I am constantly amazed at the new off-piste runs that are available.
Also the ski pass covers Super Grand Saint Bernard so if you want to get away from the crowds it is worth the 35 minute drive.
Now it is fair to say that Verbier is for skiers and not in anyway like Aspen or Gstaad. No fur coats and a great deal of apres-ski. Also the food has little to offer either on or off the slopes. You would have thought that a resort like Verbier would have food like Zermatt. Sorry to disappoint but the food is generally very boring; the same no matter where you eat and very expensive due to the exchange rate as well as them putting the price up. On the Savoleyres side there is the best Tarte aux Pommes in the resort at Chez Simon. Marmotte and Nameste on the south side of Savolyers has food that is good and they are friendly. Carrefore is always good but is pricey. On the Medran side it is a disaster. Ruinette has been redone and upstairs is more posh than it should be. Olympic is too expensive but the food fair.
My advice would be to get a baggette and cheese and ham and have lunch on the go. Save your money for going out in the evening.
All said and done - go for the skiing not the food. But a better off-piste resort in Europe (than Verbier) I do not know.
Martin
