Definitely spring skiing conditions now. Only top skiing well atm, but that's becoming heavier too. Freeze thaw, but hey it's still fun and besides, think of all of the many worse things that you could be doing.
My fifth visit to Niseko over the last 17 years. Its changed a lot but not for the better. There is now practically no Japanese experience to be had here. Its overcrowded with all infrastructure lifts/resort restaurants/mountain restaurants/buses/trains packed to the max (the only time I didn't stand on public transport in 2 weeks was on the train from Sapporo to the airport). You will probably get some great snow during your visit but be prepared to queue for it in all aspects of your holiday lifts/eating/getting around and theres a good chance most of the good stuff will be tracked out by lunch (or earlier). It may be me but it seems that they have made it harder to get to other resorts close by, Rusutsu/Moiwa used to be easy public/free transport now it's taxi and a bus or 2 buses. A car is becoming more essential in Niseko just from making getting around less painful. Although it will be chaos if that eventuates, pretty sure parking is not on anyone's list! The old Niseko is gone and the current one is losing its appeal (other than the snow of course)!
The 70cm overnight was actually more like 140cm over 48 hours. The first morning where we woke to 70cm was embarrassingly bad. The streets were not properly cleared until midday and none of the 4 resorts got anything other than their bottom lifts running the entire day….the highest you could get all day was the top of Hanazono 1 (which is about one third of the way to the top) and crowds for the lifts were at least half an hour. The second day, with another 70cm was slightly better, they got some lifts open but not the top lifts so, again, the crowds were brutal and the powder chopped in record time. At Hirafu I skied down to the Ace quad at 10am and the queue was 48 minutes….I timed it. If you think you’re going to be riding powder here past your first run, you are sadly mistaken….the place is so disappointing…..despite having more time booked here I’m leaving and going elsewhere….it is seriously ridiculous.
Back in Niseko for the 23/24 season. It’s Jan 7 and the last fortnight has been terrible. The snow has not arrived and the 4 Niseko resorts are still not linked due to lack of snow and the resulting inability to get the top lifts open. The only gate open is gate 7 at Annapuri, they have yet to open any of the top gates. The crowds on the slopes are brutal…..regular waiting times for lifts of 20 minutes. I was last here 4-5 years ago and thought the crowds were bad then…..they are double what they were now. This place is a hoax……sure they get plenty of snow (except so far this season) but the huge number of skiers/boarders, the poor quality lift infrastructure and the fact that they have not opened any new terrain in the past 20 years despite the crowd increasing 10 fold over that period, means the skiing experience is quite poor. I will not be coming here again….the place has been ruined by overdevelopment and there are far too many skiers/boarders for the size of the resort. The apres scene is ordinary as well….you havee no hope of getting into a restaurant unless you made a booking whilst still in the womb. Honestly the place is an over-hyped, expensive, poorly managed resort.
You have to pick your timing with a trip to Niseko. Around Japenese holidays, Christmas New Year etc it is extremly busy and hard to get into restaurants and there are big lift lines. Outside of those times its a powder heaven with knee deep pow, awesome apres and world class food. Looking forward to some lift upgrades such as the Ace Gondola. If you love deep pow off-piste trees and slack country then this is the place for you.
Why does their website site persist in falsely representing what the night skiing options are in Hirafu? It used to cover a great swathe of the resort from the gondola level down, now it is half that (gondola side closed for nights). And only until 7pm, not 9:30, as in the past. The option of skiing until 4, going to get some dinner and then getting back on the mountain really isn’t there now. And the closure of some of the lifts has made it harder to access some parts of the mountain without skiing all the way down and taking the gondola or quad back up, which is a pain in the backside. I also agree that the visitor numbers are too much for the available terrain. Without 10cm falls minimum each night, it’s tracked down to ice on the lower runs in no time.
Its great to be back - but - the resort does not seem to able to handle the love. Today was a continual epic cluster F###. Lifts not working or not planned to be running together with those that are going running on slow. Plus Covid or bad management not filling the lifts that were running, usually seats only half filled. Long queues on all major lifts (and also on any open mountain cafeterias). Up to half an hour. The infrastructure and management not up to the task of running a great ski resort. Such a shame as everything else about the resort excels
Other reviewers sum it up perfectly. Over expansion of accommodation infastructure. With international travel restrictions its like being back in 2008. With free travel internationally, look to a different resort within Hokkaido.