This will be our sixth year in Soldeu, Feb-26, and we're looking forward to a week of intensive skiing. We would consider ourselves to be experienced intermediate skiers, who rarely venture off-piste, but prefer to thrash the blues and reds and the occasional black. We ski from 09.30 to 16.30 each day. We're a family of four very active adults. The hotels are excellent, the food is very agreeable and the staff are very friendly and always helpful. The quality of skis (for hire) is excellent. The maintenance of the ski gear is excellent. On the slopes there are rarely queues at the lifts, there are rarely queues in the eateries and the prices are much more affordable than any other ski area in Europe. Yes; if you want adventurous off-piste, high speed, thrilling, slightly higher risk skiing, maybe the higher alpine resorts might suit best. If you are happy to pay twice the price for lift passes, gear hire, food, beer, head to the Alps. However, those of us who seek a ski-in ski-out winter skiing experience, with almost guaranteed snow, that is in line with our abilities, and pockets, head to Granvalira.
March 19, 2023
Howard Beanland
from
United Kingdom
We first went to Pas de la Casa in 2003, shortly after the Grandvalira ski area was formed by combining two previous ski lift companies. Unfortunately, in the intervening 20 years, there doesn’t appear to have been much improvement in the ski infrastructure. Whereas in Austria T-bars have been replaced by heated lifts with covers, and new and upgraded gondolas are common place, the Grandvalira is stuck with lots of slow lifts. This is particularly a problem where the lifts connect one part of the ski area with other resorts. The Assaladors and Solanells lifts in particular could potentially cause problems at busy times. Fortunately for us, it was not too busy in the resorts so we didn’t have any problems queuing; it is just frustrating moving at a glacial pace sitting on these lifts, when you could spend more time skiing. The 4-seater Cubil lift at Grau Roig is much quicker, but it’s just inadequate to cope with the volume of skiers at any time of day. It should be replaced by a six-seater as a minimum.
Incidentally, the 2023 piste map is one of the worst I’ve seen. Very confusing and indistinct, largely because most of the map is given over to advertising. We frequently used the piste map we got in 2003 which was much clearer.
There’s not an abundance of mountain restaurants. In nearly every case, there’s a limited amount of seating indoors with most restaurants relying on external seating for their patrons. This was ok whilst we were there, as the weather was generally good, and we could sit outside. In poor weather, getting indoor seating at lunchtime would have been a real struggle. There are a number of snack bars on the slopes which offer pizzas, hot sandwiches and drinks. Prices are cheaper than in France, but a little more expensive than Austria.
We stayed in Soldeu, which is well placed to access all sectors of the Grandvalira. Access to the slopes is good, and there are several easy return routes, although some of these get a little crowded towards the end of the day. We hired heated ski lockers in the gondola station and whilst these weren’t cheap, they were very convenient. Soldeu itself is pretty uninspiring. It’s a long linear village on the road between Pas and Andorra la Veilla, so there’s always a lot of through traffic.
As for the skiing, it’s good for both intermediates and beginners, but rather restricting for those who like their skiing to be gnarly. There’s plenty to go at, and enough to keep most people interested for a week.
We visited Soldeu, in the Grandvalira region of Andorra, from 9th to
16th February 2020. We booked the accommodation, transfers from Barcelona, ski hire & ski passes from a wonderful agent, “Andorra Travel Service” ... Gemma, Jackie, James & Iain couldn’t do enough for us. They replied to emails within minutes, were friendly and made our stay so enjoyable. One example of their help, we were delayed by 4 hours reaching the ski centre, by Storm Ciara, but Iain still met us at midnight as we got off the Andbus transfer and delivered us to our apartment, Bellavista, which sits facing south with a fantastic view of the village and ski runs. We had a fabulous ski holiday and really enjoyed travelling to the 6 different valleys and 4 ski centres. There are loads of areas throughout the 210km of slopes to visit with good variety and interest. We enjoyed six bluebird days during our holiday & good snow conditions, considering the resort hadn’t had a heavy dump of snow for two weeks.
The food and drinks on the mountains were good value, probably close to half the cost of other French resorts we’d been to recently. Also, in Soldeu, there are several good eateries and watering holes. We had an excellent meal in a fabulous restaurant called La Cort del Popaire... it wasn’t cheap but is really worth searching out for a special occasion.
All in all, we’d highly recommend you give Soldeu and the Grandvalira ski region a visit. It’s a good quality ski centre with excellent lifts, minimal queues, affordable food and drink with lots of ski options that probably suits all levels of skier. Enjoy .... Guy
Just a few words about Andorra: it is a small state in the Pyrenees mountains between France and Spain. Best connection from Barcelona El Prat airport with directbus every two hours at the price of 34 Euros per person. The trip lasts 3 1/2 hours. Andorra has two main ski regions. 1) Vallnord, which encompasses Pal, Arinsal (these two are interconnected) and Arcalis, and 2) Grandvalira, which encompasses six interconnected ski areas (Encamp, Canillo, El Tarter, Soldeu, Crau Roig and Pas de La Casa). Well, skiing in Grandvalira is fantastic. I was there on Friday, 15th February 2019. The ticket is expensive, thus 51 Euro for a full day, but it offers unlimited options. I skied 5 hours non-stop and have not managed to ski maybe even half of the pistes. I did not have time to look at the map. I just skied where it happened to go! For an advanced skier the Grandvalira area is perfect. It consists mostly of blue and red runs. I have found some of the red runs rather blue, like Isard. On the other hand, Obagot was a true red, although short. The black Mirador was really easy, as the snow has been softened because of the sun and was cut like butter! Some of the pistes are in pine forest, but most of them. Especially the ones in higher altitude; they are treeless. The lift system is really efficient. It was quite busy, but there were almost no queues with the exception of Cubil lift, when I wanted to return back to Soldeu at 16:00. I was afraid of high temperatures, as on the base the temperature was 6 degrees above Celsius. However, the snow kept in fantastic condition. I think Grandvalira is a great place not only to learn how to ski but also to improve your skiing skills. The only drawbacks is Andorra itself, as it lacks charm and it is outside European Union (which means expensive phone calls and very expensive data) and the capital is quite boring. Also, a major issue is the traffic. The bus took 90 min. from Soldeu to Andorra La Vella at 17:00, which is less than 20km distance! However, I did not regret to visit to Andorra, as skiing there was fantastic and I look forward to visiting it again in the future to enjoy skiing there more.
Excellent appartment between Pas de la Casa and Soldeu; good slopes, a lot of snow, nice friends next door but.....why not organise bus transport more efficiently? Some of our bus adventures in one week: 1 bus per 20m but not on fixed times, tickets not included in ski passes and, on top, to be bought and printed per person (delays!), Different companies seem to operate the buses (week cards don't work), skis to be stored in the boot below (put all on top of each other, falling from the bus when leaving), bus stopping 200 mtrs after the ski station because there is no place to stop, when in the bus driver hits 90km/hr on snowy road while printing the tickets. Incredible for such a nice resort to 'forget' this important part of a successful ski holiday. When this improves might consider coming back!
25th January.
Very windy on top, link Soldeu - Grau Roig closed today due to this. Summit tracks with hard snow and ice, little stones everywhere. Snow quality is better as you descent, some powder tracks at mid-bottom. No queues at lifts. Ski day rating, 3 over 5.
[note from the editor: this weather report will hopefully also appear with the Eyeball Reports for Grandvalira-Soldeu.)
With high winds closing off chairlift access to upper slopes all telecabinas/ chairlifts from Soldeu and El Tarter had very long queues. It would be interesting to know why Corb button lift was out of action all day? Perhaps worst of all were queues to buy lift passes. 1 hour to buy a walk-up pass and at least 35 - 45 minutes to buy a regular lift pass. I think Grandvalira need to re-think their online application procedures as this seems to cause massive hold ups at the caixes. Staff doing their best but management needs to take more positive action regarding customer service.
Absolutely phenomenol instruction; the instructors, in the ski and snowboard schools, are a cut above the rest. Lesley is just amazing. What she did for my confidence in the space of a week I will never, ever forget! Never thought I'd enjoy red or black slopes! The apres-ski is also great: La Caneta and Dat Alberts for food and The Harp for drinks!