I lived in Leysin in 91/92 and have returned on occasion. I loved that place and the moniker "Magic Mountain" could not have been more appropriate. The mystique of living on the mountain was the most incredible experience of my life. However, when I returned in '03 I was completely pained by the downturn that the village had taken. Some of the all-time great places no longer existed; La Grota (greatest pizza in CH), Whispers and of course Club Vagabond- truly one of the best bars in the world.
To those who lived in Leysin during its heyday and have not yet returned, the town retains its natural beauty but all that we knew as Leysin is no longer. A sad end to an absolutely incredible story.
I've been back to Leysin this spring and it was a sad view! Many buildings look pretty tumbled down compared to the really great time I had in 1988/ 1989 till about the mid 90ies. Where once stood the "Le Grenier" (in 2002 or 03) there was at least still a Disco, but the door to get in wasn't even there anymore. The Whispers was closed (like it was in 03), everything was overgrown there. The Top Pub was also closed (open after 5 pm). The fountain in front looked in poor condition too, and the Nelson Pub was already the Western Saloon in 03). To think how much I missed that place and it's people, how I envied the people who could still be there, I can't imagine anymore! For me Leysin has lost a lot of it's glamour, seems like a Hollywood Star sinking down into darkness :-( sadly to say that it's rather a dead place now! But I still like to remember the great time I had there and I'm glad I was able to have lived there for 1,5 years.
Visited Leysin for the first time since skiing there as a child, and was impressed by how open and easy it was. If you want the massive linked complexes of Tignes and the Trois Vallees, this isn't the place for you. Lots of the runs are blues and the pistes are well-groomed to keep moguls from building up, making it ideal for less confident skiers and families. Lots of the runs are through the trees, which is especially nice.
We stayed in the very comfortable and modern Chalet Ermina B&B, 3 mins walk from the lifts, where the owner Ariane was lovely and speaks perfect English. There are some nice restaurants in the village and it's not too expensive (70CHF for dinner for 3, with sodas). The Cheese Museum is a must-visit.
Spring conditions meant there's nothing left in the village now and it all gets a bit soggy in the afternoons because a lot of the resort is south-facing. But snow is good if you stay above the mid-level and one run to the village was kept going with snow cannons.
Visited Leysin for the last 10 years. Never been very busy on the slopes, no more than a 5 min wait for the lifts. When visiting your ski pass can also include other resorts as well which are only a 20 min drive away. We are a family of 7 with ages from 42 to 3 and the resort is perfect for us. We stay in our hotel most evenings ( Le Grand Chalet) enjoying good food and company. Scenery is wonderful and for the average skier, the runs are enjoyable.
Slow lifts however no people (especially skiers) in sight.
When it snows it snows hard. When the sun shines it melts quickly.
The vast off-piste is amazing (when there's snow)!
The mountain itself is incredibly peaceful as it has hardly any people there outside of French/Swiss holiday times.
The spiritual center of the universe according to The Dalai Lama!
Hardly any apres-ski, but it is the spiritual center of the universe so who cares.
Leysin is small resort by alpine standards, however if you combine it with nearby Les Diablerets (where there's skiing on Glacier 3000) and Villars, on the Vaudois Ski Pass, it makes for a large ski area. A car is worth considering if you want to ski all three areas, as unusually by Swiss standards, the shuttle bus which runs between Diablerets and Leysin only runs at certain times of the year. Transport from Geneva airport is easy by train, and finishes with a lovely 'Cog' train ride from the small town of Aigle to Leysin through the forest; it's very romantic!.
Leysin is south facing which can make for spring conditions early on in the year. There are some nice little restaurants on the hill, one in particular at the foot of Mayen is very rustic. None of the runs are particularly taxing, however there is good off piste which can be accessed from the marked runs and leads you through the trees. When I skied there for the first time in 1986 I skied 3 foot powder through the pine trees!
The views from La Bernuese, where there is a revolving restaurant at the top, are great you can see the Dents de Midis, and the whole of Lake Geneva.
There is a good mountaineering school, ski school and mountain guides for real off piste expidtions.
The village is quiet with a handfull of good restaurants. There is a very good sports centre with swimming pool and an ice rink at the bottom of the village.
There is plenty of good accomadation to suite all tastes, although few chalets, and only one 4 star hotel. Night life is confined to two bars, we never went, however they looked well attended by the boarding fraternity, but Leysin is not a place for partying I would guess, since the Club Vagabond closed down some years ago. Food and accomadation is cheap by Swiss standards.
We stayed at Chalet Orchides the last time I visited, which was friendly and reasonably priced and only a 5 - 10 minute walk from the main lift complex.
A good resort for mixed ability couples or families on a budget.