My nephew & I got invited on a 30th birthday long weekend at the end of Jan 2017. The 7 of us got into town just after 12pm. The hire shops were closed from 12-2pm . What's that all about? After an hour or so in a "steady" bar we headed back to the hire shop for gear, hoping to catch the last 2 hours on the slopes; the hire shop wouldn't allow us to leave our footwear there. Fair enough!
Next morning we hiked up the road to the gondola from town, not impressed by the local mountain. Buses next day to the other mountains, no snow-making to top up through lack of snowfall. Les Houches was probably the best area. Nothing challenging but quieter than Argentiere. More nightlife at a whist drive, you can keep Chamonix. I'm struggling to find something good to say, it's back to good old Austria for me. I'd rather take up indoor bowls than be paid to come back here, not impressed.
I skied in Chamonix on Saturday, 18 Feb. 2017. It is a short day trip from Geneva. I took the bus from Geneva bus station at 08:30 skied until 15:30, then took a rest and took the bus back to Geneva at 18:30. Return bus ticket 50 Euro. I chose to ski at Brevent and Flegere, which are the ski centers closer to Chamonix center. You must take a free bus to get to the gondola. The bad thing is that you have to carry equipment from the city, as there is no place to rent at the mountain. This is bad because when getting back the bus was late and became too crowded with people carrying their skis. Lift ticket is expensive at 50 Euro per day. However, in my opinion, it deserves the money. Brevent and Flegere are, in my opinion, best for intermediate skiers. There are mostly reds and blues. The two black pistes leading down to the city (Nants, La Praz) were closed due to a lack of snow. There was generally quite a lot of snow. However, there were many places with stones, especially the pistes exposed to the sun. Generally speaking, Brevent had harder, even icy, snow whereas Flegere had softer more forgiving snow. I enjoyed the red Cornu in Brevent and the black in Floria Flegere. Also, the red Crochues and Pylones. The background is beautiful, as you can see the Chamonix valley and on the other side Aiguille du Midi and Mont Blanc. There is a frequent lift linking the two ski centers. Chamonix is a nice city, not so much charming but for sure there are many things to do, always full with people and nice to stroll over there. Food was not good, very touristic.
Yes, indeed, Chamonix for skiing is a king without a crown. Year after year the quality and amount of snow on the ski slopes is dropping, the preparation is neglected and way under average if you see what Austrians and Italians do to keep their slopes in good condition.
And yes, indeed, it is way overpriced: 50€ for a day. And no, the ski elevators are not connecting this ski area to one area. It is still a would be ski area that is just a collection of three separate very small ski regions.
Again last week no snow on the Chamonix side of the Mt Blanc. The Italian side: Courmayeur, is better served by snow and especially they do a very good maintenance and piste preparation and the ski area is well connected.
Yes, in Chamonix, you have the special views from the Aiguille du Midi but that highest European ski elevator is closed a lot.
Chamonix is no king anymore; it is an expensive "name" ticket you buy so you can tell everyone you've been there. We know it's a no go for a ski holiday. The chance to have an acceptable descent of the Valle Blanche is limited, the glacier is melting, even the end elevator (a must take if you could ski the Vallee Blanche) is becoming each year a longer walk because the lack of snow and melting glacier.
Courmayeur is a fair alternative if you would like to set foot on the Mt Blanc area. If you want off-piste just go to La Grave or Tignes or Gressoney. Chamonix is no king, just an expensively dressed old queen....
Quality before quantity.
Chamonix, how I love and hate it. In some ways, it's simply the best place to ski; ever. In other ways, it's like a high maintenance beauty that's emotionally unstable.
The Aguille Du Midi and the Vallee Blanche are stunning, also Grand Montets is an amazing ski area too. Any advanced or expert skier could live here forever and die happy. However, oddly for many others it really should never be recommended.
Let me explain. Mont Blanc is on the western side of the Alps and is the highest peak, so it attracts the most unstable weather. This can be good because it will probably get some of the best snow, but then can also be bad because fog, rain and high winds are more likely. Cham is at an altitude of only 1000 meters meaning many of the lower runs will be unskiable most of the year. The locals seem slightly laissez-faire: the first lift doesn't open until 8.45 or 9 and you could be hanging around with no information. Then the lifts shut at 3.30. The town is massively popular so the big cable cars on Montets and Aguille Du Midi have to be pre booked.
Some of the ski areas are at a stupidly low altitude and are far apart needing long bus journeys. If you ski the Valley Blach you're unlikely to ski for more than 1.5 hours the whole day over a 1600 meter vertical drop.
So for the improving intermediate or low advanced skier, on a six day ski holiday, Chamonix is a bit of a disaster area. You spend more time queuing, sitting on buses or on slow antiquated chair lifts than you ever will skiing. In this case, it would be better to find a ski area less crowded, better situated and open for longer to get the most from your precious short time on the snow and paying 5 Euros for a can of cola.
However, if you are an expert skier looking for a place to live Chamonix would be a great choice. If you have a season pass and just ski those blue-bird days after a snowfall it couldn't be better. Or maybe you've fully mastered the gnarliest, steepest black runs, and are bored of regular resorts and need some insane ice-climbing/mountaineering skiing.
I'm not saying Chamonix isn't amazing or shouldn't be on every skiers bucket list, but it is something to work toward, especially if you have already had at least 10 days on snow that year.
January 05, 2015
Lawrie McWilliams
from
United Kingdom
Fantastic scenery but inadequate infrastructure. The key lifts [e.g. Parsa at Brevent] and Grand Montet are woeful.
Huge crowds/very slow/too expensive. I will never fail to be be captivated by the beauty of the place but after ten years of going three or four times a year I have realised that the customers are being taken for mugs. Definitely visit if you can get there, but only in a quiet period; avoid if it's a busy one!
I love Chamonix; I hate it in equal measure. I've been there in summer and winter and had great times and truly terrible times there.
I'd consider myself a solid off-piste skier with many powder trips under my belt. But I'd still say that without a guide, I'd be really cautious of taking on some of Cham's powder as the danger factor is ramped up on the heavily crevassed glaciers and risk from seracs above. Maybe I wasn't looking hard enough or didn't have the right inside knowledge but I struggled to find good stuff in what I'd call a reasonable distance from the lifts. As I said, get a guide who will presumably open it all up for you. You've only got to have one timid off-pister in the group to make the powder off limits without splitting up. Most of us can't afford a guide for the whole week. So while we all talk a good powder game, I'd say for most of us, to get a good shot at enjoying powder on your one week away I'd go elsewhere. Controversial I know!
For a long weekend, the pistes are fine with plenty of variety around the valley. For a week, you really do need to get off-piste so without a guide or a seriously blinkered view of your own mortality you're going to be struggling.
Chamonix, like any mountain centre, is at the mercy of the weather and Mont Blanc does seem to create a bit of a micro-climate. So you may find the powder lines you've researched all autumn are totally out of scope when you get there. Be flexible and prepare to get in your car and try elsewhere.
The town itself is good fun with something for everyone. Want posh? It can out-posh the Beckhams. You want grungy? No problem, Cham can go cheap and dirty as you like. As others have said, it benefits from the authenticity of being a proper town, even though the whole town is geared around tourism.
My advice? Give Chamonix a go, maybe for a long weekend at first. Just don't expect it to scratch all your powder itches without serious investment in guides and a touch of good luck with the weather.
Spent a season in Chamonix. It is a great place but only if you love mountains; it is not a resort. There is something about it; some quality, it just has "it". I have skied in quite a few other places, but the ski mountaineering here is incredible. A car is great, yes, but of little use when your departure is miles from your exit unless you have two. The train system (and bus) is absolutely spot on. Just plan accordingly with the timetables. Or hitch a lift!
The pistes are pretty poor compared to Verbier, Zermatt etc. But it isn't about that! Consider yourself warned.
As for rude people etc. Utter garbage. Everyone is here to celebrate the mountains. If you want some Disney resort with service, go to North America.
I live in Geneva and have a huge choice of ski slopes 2 hrs from my door. I like Chamonix the best (actually more in summer). In winter, there is something for everyone. True, it suits better the intermediate/expert skier but I have 2 young kids learning now and they fit in just fine. Yes, it's marginally more expensive than other resorts but it offers a lot more. Also, true that the major areas are not linked but each provides sufficient skiing for an entire day for piste only skiers. For those willing and able to ski off-piste there are no limits. The locals are not friendly, I hear you say, well it's 90 pct probable you've been served by a Brit, a Swede or a non local French. The French, generally, are surly so get over it. You're here to ski, not make new friends with bar and restauarant staff. Learn the language, at least the basics, it may actually break down some barriers! :-)
If you're a good off-piste skier and the futility of sitting on chair lifts gets too much then the Cham valley is the place to be.
One lift up, skis on the shoulder or skinning and you can access some of the best snow ever. There is a mixed bag of excellent day/multi-day tours/steep slopes, etc.
Beware, do not venture without avalanche rescue kit and possibly crampons/ice axes/ropes. If you don't others will get very annoyed and rightly so. In the mountains everyone looks after each other and all chip in if things go wrong.
It is the spirit of being in the mountains which gives Cham it's unique appeal and gives skiing a real purpose.
I am fortunate to live in Geneva and, within 90 mins, have access to the best skiing on the planet. Having skied all over the globe it makes me laugh that people even have the cheek to complain about Chamonix, the resort that gave birth to extreme snow and mountain sports.
It's a no holds barred free ski resort, it's not for beginners nor intermediates but then it doesn't pretend to be. It's a 'balls to the wall' ski mountaineering resort for advanced to expert skiers.
If you don't fit that bill and want to plod around on pistes all day, to shake of that apres-ski hangover go to Morzine, Avoriaz, Flaine etc etc.
If you want to ski the steepest steeps and be surrounded by amazing scenery come to Chamonix. The lift served off-piste with only a 30 min tour or hike is off the chart.
Yes, it's disjointed but it works in the off-piste skiers favour because it keeps the piste/semi off-piste skiers constrained and stops everything being tracked to high heaven early doors.
As for the language issue, simple, learn French, it's not hard. As for the cost, try going to Courchevel or Verbier. Some people really need a dose of reality.
Hands down the best ski resort in Europe, possibly the world.