This is from a piste skier’s perspective. Despite the smaller individual areas, Chamonix is still great. If you think carefully where to stay, you can use the quick reliable train to easily get to the Grand Montets, Flegere and Le Tour (Valloricine station). The buses are fine and really frequent but the train is easier.
The Brevent-Flegere area is big enough to keep you happy for a couple of days and has terrific views. Le Tour (Balme) is better than I remembered. Grands Montets is really missing the top lift that’s being rebuilt.
Food on the mountain has improved with more options than I remember from my last trip 10 years ago. Food in town is still really good with loads of choice.
It’s easy to get to, I took an overnight bus from Paris which worked well. I arrived at 7, had breakfast in the Plan B hotel by the bus station and was skiing by 9. If that’s too extreme, Geneva airport is just over an hour away and there are good train services from Paris.
If you’re a piste skier who occasionally ventures off-piste, Chamonix is poor as there are so many good powder skiers it gets tracked out in no time. The great off-piste is well away from the ski areas and quite serious.
I have been going to Chamonix for several years now, both winter and summer, and it just gets better and better. The thing about Chamonix is not only does it have world class skiing, but it is a bustling beautiful town that has a huge array of bars and restaurants, fantastic varied accommodation and fabulous shops. I like to experience different resorts across Europe but whilst skiing may be great, the off-piste can be limiting and you will only go once. With Chamonix (and a few other bigger resorts) you get an ever changing resort, suitable to budgets of all sizes and plenty to do for non-skiers too. The summer there is also just as good as the winter! If you want a purpose built ski-in / ski-out ski resort, then Chamonix is not for you. If you want the original and authentic ski town, then I can't recommend enough..
If you want a idyllic mountain experience, forget Chamonix. If you like loud techno sound all night long on the streets, then Chamonix is perfect. For me I hated it. Will never come back! Worst experience ever.
First time in Chamonix and left disappointed because we where paying premium prices (340 for 5 day Mont Blanc pass) but not getting a premium product. lift system needs modernising and an increase capacity at a few pinch points. I was surprised that there's really only a day's skiing in each area and if you don't have a car you're reliant on the dreaded bus to get to the different areas in the valley, e.g Argentire and Les Houches. There should be a pass for just these areas as everywhere else on the Mont Blanc pass are too far away and would only be beneficial for those with a car on a touring holiday. A bug bear of skiing in France is the cost of dining on the slopes, big money for an inferior product and very few toilets. There was better value to be had down in the town and there is a good vibe in the town center. Becketts Irish bar was good, free pool and reasonable drink prices. We didn't have ideal ski conditions, too mild and also had a stomach bug so if we had fresh snow skiing would have been a better experience as there does seem to be plenty of off-piste here. So it would have made up for the deficiencies in the product here. Going to Les Arcs next, which is ski in-ski out so if that doesn't impress then back to Austria and Andorra.
I think many of these comments are clearly from people who are not well suited to Chamonix. If you want a soulless Disneyland style resort where everything is perfectly groomed, if you want everything managed for you, if you spend most of your time on pistes, if a massive gourmet lunch stop is an important part of the day and if it's important to be seen wearing your best Gucci fur in the evening then you're completely missing the point of Chamonix and would be better off in one of the many purpose built 'resorts' like the Porte du Soleil. But, if you're a good skier, if you actually want to experience skiing in the mountains, if you're happy skiing different types of terrain and snow because you appreciate this is the real world and not some manicured playground then Chamonix is unrivalled across the world. Simple.
January 05, 2020
Michael Griffiths
from
United Kingdom
I really can't believe some of the miserable reviews below. I first really came to Chamonix 14 years ago and was blown away by the views of the mountains. Far, far better than any other resort in Europe.
If you are a piste cruiser, don't come to Chamonix, it is not for you. If you like to ski steeper runs, push your skiing and like adventure it is for you.
A real town, not a tinsel-town resort and very easy to completely fall for . I wouldn't choose to go anywhere else.
Don't expect a ski resort; Chamonix is a spectacular mountain town. it would be wrong to try to compare Chamonix with a huge purpose built "ski drome" such as Les Trois Vallees. It does have some of the most challenging world class free-ride terrain and off-piste potential, enough to challenge most people for a lifetime; world class skiing and ski touring but you will have to make an effort and give of yourself to make the most of it.. Hire a guide or join a guided group.
Chamonix has excellent scenery, truly some of the best I have ever seen. The ski area makes the most of these views but the runs cannot compare to Zermatt, Verbier, Trois Valais, Arlberg or Dolomites.
It's a busy town with antiquated lifts and unquestionably has the very worst restaurants I have ever been to on ski slopes in 35 years of skiing. Over priced, foul quality with the atmosphere of Soviet era railway stations. Indifferent service, lousy variety and very low quality. Tendance Foehn is the worst of the worst!
Chamonix is great for advanced off piste. There are some really classic routes, although with the glacier dropping some are getting quite dangerous, like the Pas de Chèvre.
My advice would be to use a guide if you want to get the most out of Cham. Just join the ‘guide day’ group which you can book at the Guides Office. It’s quite cheap at around 85 euros and you just ski with whoever else has pitched up. You meet some interesting people and enjoy a guided day for a fraction of the price of hiring your own guide. Often the guides prefer to go through to Courmayeur and there are great off-piste routes there too. The food is better there too!