Matt from UNITED KINGDOM writes:
Just returned from Zermatt, and was so very, very, very disappointed with the resort as a whole.
If I could explain why from two perspectives.
1. We are experienced skiers who have done many seasons between us. We're interested in itinerary, steeps, chutes, bumps and other challenging stuff. We found Zermatt to be unbelievably boring, with only one area that we had to illegally hike to get to as it was made perfectly clear it would not be opening till february. Zermatt lifties closed lifts at the first opportunity to do so, and did so with impunity. Truly awful people, with no concept of duty to the skiers who were paying through the nose for the area pass.
2. As a group of families who have now taken to doing your one major ski holiday per year Zermatt proved to be totally inadequate - some for reasons it cannot control, but mostly for reasons it could. Geographically it is a fairly long transfer, and along with the train and taxi's you inevitably end up taking, it saps the energy out of even the hardened traveller. As Zermatt is a petrol-free resort, it relies on public transport such as taxi's and bus's. Taxi's are a disgraceful rip off, whose drivers are lunatics who take to interpreting fare's by whatever they feel like charging. Bus's are infrequent, exceptionally small, cramped and badly linked. The bus situation is inexcusable. Zermatt relies on a bus network which is just woefully inadequate. The lifts are always a walk up or downhill and even at non-peak times you are guaranteed some form of queueing. On peak, it will take 1-1.5 hours to get up to the top of the glacier. Ridiculous? Yes.
Lifts and particularly connecting lifts that are important to put people back in the correct valley for them to ski home in close absurdly early. Some as early as 15.00-15.10. How any resort in decent conditions can justify closing lower linking lifts so early and with such a horribly inflexible attitude is just beyond belief. On the Italian side it's soo much better; most lifts closing at 16.00-16.15. This was all consistent with the trend of Italian value vs Swiss style-over-substance. Zermatt is a RIP OFF. Full stop. Food and drink in Italy is cheaper, and in a different world of quality (particularly the coffee). Zermatt's glitz and beauty (the Matterhorn is undeniably an imperious neighbour) hides its poor quality and bland skiing. Bland for experts, overly crowded and stressful for beginners who struggle with miles of walking with ski's and lifties that close lifts whenever they want.
Conclusion: If you go, try and get over to Italy as much as possible. The skiing is slightly better, and the food and drink is in a different class. However, try not to go. It is more hassle than its worth. I regrettably say that I will never go back there.
2010-01-03 |