Rupert Bowers from UNITED KINGDOM writes:
The last reviewer, in fact, appears to have stayed in Le Fayet rather than Saint Gervais proper. Le Fayet is the start of the Mont Blanc tramway and has the well known spa of Les Thermes. It also has a large Quechua store but limited bars and restaurants. St. Gervais proper is an historic town and the traditional starting point for Mont Blanc assents as the tram stops here on it's way up the mountain.
The ski area links to Megeve and the views are stunning down the l'avre valley. The skiing is relatively easy (compared to nearby Chamonix) but there is good off-piste when there has been a dump. It is a great area if your party is mixed ability and a good place for children to learn and there is also a creche at Bettex (up the mountain) to leave the little ones while you ski.
Saint Gervais still has the feel of being traditionally French. Have a drink in Le Grange which is the hub of life in the town. Best restaurants are La Galleta and Lou Grangini and The Yucatan is a late night venue with live music.
The town is suited to families and those that don't want to be out until 3 every morning but enjoy a few drinks and a meal after skiing. Eating up the mountain is always going to be pricey but try the small restaurant under the Bettex bubble station where you can get 2 courses of home cooked food for about 12-14 Euros.
At 850m the town is low so don't expect much snow in the valley. The fashion for ski in-ski out resorts has seen the purpose built towns encroaching ever higher up the mountain but as many of you will know these resorts are pretty souless and generally totally shut in summer. The traditional ski resorts were always in the valley (Cortina, Chamonix, Morzine are all about 1000m). The beauty of Saint Gervais' location is that it is a 45 minute drive to Geneva. I can't stress the importance of having a car enough. With a car the whole area opens up and you can ski Les Houche (10 mins ot take the tram), Les Contamines (15 mins), Megeve (15 mins), Combloux (10 mins), Chamonix (20 mins), Argentiere, Flaine, Samoens, and Morzine are all about 45 minutes. You can even go through the Mont Blanc tunnel and be in Cormayeur in an hour. So, if the snow is poor in Saint Gervais and Megeve there are any number of options.
Although quieter in summer the climbers and walkers move in and being at the heart of Alpinisme it is not hard to see why. There are not only the mountains to climb but many easier walks and hikes plus mountain biking. There is an indoor ice rink and children's play ground with a traditional merry-go-round to keep the kids amused and a large sporting club with all weather tennis courts and outdoor pool with stunning views and crazy golf for the children. As with much in France, the club is municipal so anyone can go and, unlike municipal facilities in the UK, it is very good!
I bought a flat here with some friends last year and can honestly say it was one of the best decisions I have ever made. The ease and speed (my record is 4 hours door-to-door London-St. Gervais) of getting here means that weekends are a great option without spending all night on a snow train and feeling totally knackered on arrival.
Travel to Saint Gervais and Chamonix under your own steam hiring a car at Geneva and you will have a great time; take a package and you will be tied to one place and beholden to ski-buses. There is a tourist office in town and a website with links to hotels and the ESF so it's pretty easy to sort yourself out.
I can't recommend the whole area highly enough, winter or summer, and would be happy to help anyone wishing to visit- rupert.bowers@ntlworld.com.
2007-03-25 |
